The first country on the itinerary is Peru. We've been here nearly one month, and have so far been to three different cities. The luxury of the beginning of a trip is that you feel like you have all the time in the world, so you take it. You enjoy it. You even waste it in the best ways possible. You can imagine traveling for long periods of time can be extremely exhausting, so taking occasional lazy days is necessary to keep my health in tact...though it doesn't always work as I am now trying to get rid of a pesky cold.
LIMA
We have been using Lima mostly as a base city, but I've found I quite enjoy it. When we first arrived, we only spent one day exploring the city- Miraflores, the beach, where ever the sidewalk took us. On day two we took an 8 hour overnight bus ride to Huaraz, where we spent two weeks. After Huaraz, it was back to Lima. This time we were able to spend a few days here. Randomly enough, a couple of my coworkers from Alaska were in Lima at the same time so I was able to spend time with them, and I am so glad I was able to get to know them better!
We celebrated Halloween American style, dressed up and partied a little bit too hard. Ventured over to the city center, where there was an unexpected and HUGE celebration taking place. There were food carts scattered everywhere, so of course we had to try as many of them as our stomachs could handle. Arroz con leche, churros, sweet potato chips, chifas, donuts with syrup. Needless to say I was feeling a bit overwhelmed with food that day!
We took a tour of the beautiful Iglesia de San Francisco and its catacombs underneath. I was shocked to find that they pretty much lied to these people, promising them a private tomb in exchange for a large sum of money, when they really unburied them a few months later and stacked their bones in huge pits.
After watching my friend Jessica get an awesome tattoo, Carli and I decided we had to partake too. So we schedule appointments for the next day. I finally got the Hamsa Hand/ Hand of Fatima that I've been wanting for years. It signifies protection, and brings about happiness, luck, health, joy, and good fortune. Perfect symbol to aid in a safe journey. Though I will say, after two hours of drilling on my ribcage, I was a little hesitant of whether I made a good choice. A week later, I am quite thrilled with it!
We've been staying at the Kokopeli hostel which is a pretty cool place. It's located in Miraflores which is one of the nicer parts of the city, surrounded by cool restaurants, cafes, bars, and shops.
So we are staying in Lima for the weekend, then it's off to the coastal towns of Paracas and Ica, which I am quite excited about!
HUARAZ
We scheduled a bus to take us to Huaraz overnight, and thought it departed at 10:30. Little did we know there were two bus terminals, and the one we showed up to at 10:18 was the first stop, we missed the bus by 6 minutes! So we set out on a high speed chase to catch the bus, ran through the terminal with our concerned taxi driver. Luckily the bus waited for us! We learned our lesson that night about cutting it too close to departure times as well as not checking itineraries and locations properly! So the next morning we woke up to sunny Huaraz, hardly rested and extremely dehydrated.
What a beautiful mountain town! We spent two weeks here getting to know the town and the surrounding mountain range, Cordillera Blanca. After an easy day of acclimating, we hiked to Laguna 69. There was a point, at about 15,500 feet and ten minutes from the top, that I thought I might die! But I persisted and of course the top was worth every bit of pain, which immediately subsided upon seeing the beautiful aqua glacial lake and towering mountains surrounding it. The trail was basically a stream thanks to all the rainfall, so that was pretty fun to maneuver! We squeezed in a crowded van at the trails end, filled with locals coming down the awful mountain road. After a couple hours of extreme discomfort, we made it back to Huaraz and stuffed our bellies full of Chifa aka Chinese food.
The next day we set out on another day hike to Laguna Churup. This one was possibly shorter, but way steeper. Hiked alongside a waterfall, using cables to help climb the huge boulders. I found later in the midst of a mild panic attack, I am extremely terrified of going down backwards using the cables! Carli was brave enough to jump in the lake, while I refused after she surfaced screaming "don't do it!". We enjoyed the sunshine and the view for a while, then hiked back down. On our way back, we encountered a few Quechua people who were lovely. One man rode by on a donkey, and stopped long enough to start talking politics and religion with us.
After a couple days of rest, we embarked on the 4-day Santa Cruz trek. Though we had some doubts about weather conditions, it ended up being quite perfect for us the whole time. The view in that valley was amazing! Although it's a national park, it is still used as free grazing grounds, so unfortunately there are poo piles everywhere along the entire trail. Our second night of camping, we were lucky enough to be next to a guided group who invited us to join them not only for dinner, but a pancake breakfast too. It was very fortunate because we didn't exactly pack enough food! We were feeling both exhausted and excited our last day, but after an awful 6 hour bus ride surrounded by 20 people and a bag of guinea pigs in a van meant for 15, we were over it!
We had planned on doing a 8-12 day trek on the HuayHuash trail, but unfortunately due to poor conditions we were not able to. So instead we spent our days enjoying many coffee presses of delicious Peruvian coffee at Cafe Andino and California Cafe. We frequented the market and enjoyed doing yoga on the rooftop on nice days.
Huaraz is a definite must-do, especially for mountain lovers.
IQUITIOS
Our flight to Iquitos was supposed to take an hour and a half, but after seven hours of weather delay we made it to town just in time to find all the hostels booked up and seemingly had no choice but to stay in a friend of our mototaxi drivers 'bunk house'. Windowless, bug filled, dirty, and hot... we were not thrilled! Early the next morning we left and checked into the Flying Dog hostel, which was quite the upgrade but still not so impressive. Iquitos is an interesting city. It is extremely remote, so there aren't many vehicles, only mototaxis and motorcycles. It's become a bit of a tourist trap, jungle tour companies out on the street trying to sell you trips.
We booked with a reasonable one that took us into the jungle for two days. During that time we floated and swam in the Amazon river, visited local villages, held monkeys and sloths at a reserve, hiked through the jungle at night, fished for pirahna, and lounged in the hammock room. It was a relaxing change of pace from the cities. Of course I was attacked multiple times by various spiders and mosquitoes, crossing my fingers I don't get yellow fever.
So there you have it! That's basically what I've been up to for the past month. Doesn't seem like that much!
I want to end with saying you are capable of creating any life you wish to have. Your truest desires, your frequent thoughts, and even your fears, will all come together to create your reality. So keep that in mind as you go through each day. Live it positively and without fear. Live life true to yourself, and you will find life will just unfold as it's meant to. I have figured out my intention for my life, and I am really excited with what's to come!
"By choosing your thoughts, and by selecting which emotional currents you will release and which you will reinforce, you determine the effects that you will have upon others, and the nature of the experiences of your life."
"Make your atmosphere so joyous that all who come near you will feel its buoyancy."
Jonelle I am so blessed to be on this journey with you. You make every SouthAmerican day brighter and cheerier. Te Amo.
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